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Hello Everyone,I wanted to get more of my boards into arcade cabinets instead of floating around on shelves (for example - a CPS1, CPS2 Darksoft Multikit, and CPS3 in one machine or Guerilla War and another vertical shmup in another) and I've been checking out the various multi-jamma units and switchers.Does anyone have any suggestions as to which one is the best? The cost of these things seems rather high but I want to protect my boards and to just be able to play. I am not worried about the boards being powered on for instantaneous switching but I want the switcher to be safe and reliable.Here are the ones I've been trying to decide between:1. Clay's Multi-Jamma -US$125 (with 2 switchboards) + $23 (for each additional switchboard) + shippingI like that this one can grow over time (Up to 8 boards through switchboards) but reading through the files it says it needs its own power supply and works best with an auto-switching monitor. If anyone has this.I would love to see how they have it wired up because the extra power wiring has me a bit worried. It also requires a lot of lead time in terms of ordering (4-10 weeks) and there is no paypal/credit option.2.

MikesArcade Double Jamma Switcher -US$135 b+ shippingThis one seems pretty good but only can switch between 2 boards. It also doesn't have mounting holes for pcb feet. Mike's does allows for paypal payments.3.

Time Harvest Multi Jamma -Ali-Express - $42.00 +$16 shippingI have seen a few of the Chinese made jamma switches - but unlike the green ones this one doesn't have a remote dongle but rather a simple switch that can be mounted in the cabinet which I think is much better. The switcher routes +5VDC, +12VDC, and -5VDC, 4 shot buttons, and test/service buttons.It also has a bunch of other ports (VGA, RGB-S, and Audio) which I am unsure how you might use these unless this device also does scaling. The price is nice.obviously as I could buy 3 of these for the cost of the other units. There is also a 6-in-1 solution but it seems that it requires lots of mods (which I don't want to do, including -5V) and it also uses the remote dongle instead of switch.Anyone have any experiences or advice to share? Thanks in advance! I have two of those 2-in-1 Jamma switcher boards.' MikesArcade Double Jamma Switcher'I have one of these in my Sega Astro City.

It's great if you like to have two boards in a cab, but you have to make sure you set your voltage to proper level and try to keep it there. So you can run like an MVSand Jamma board without problem, but if you try to run an MVS and CPS2, thenyou're going to run into voltage issues.You also need to know that as awesome as it is to hit P1/P2 Star Buttons at the same time to change a game, if you're using one of those MVS Multi-Carts, then you're going to not be able to get back to the Start menu without wiring a start button at the MVS Jamma connector. It doesn't allow for a 4th button through the Jamma harness, so you'll need to wire something directly or make a special kick harness or something.It also doesn't have any clean way to mount the thing.It kind of just hangs there.Other than that, I really like it.

It's just expensive.' Time Harvest Multi Jamma -Ali-Express'I have one of these in my DDR machine and only because Iwanted to have a 573 and MiniMaid in the cab at the same time. The switch is apiece of crap and will sometimes 'flip' back to the other signalafter being pressed.Overall, it works as it should, but I wouldn't really trust it in a candy cab or with expensive boards (like CAVE pcbs). It's great if you like to have two boards in a cab, but you have to make sure you set your voltage to proper level and try to keep it there. So you can run like an MVSand Jamma board without problem, but if you try to run an MVS and CPS2, thenyou're going to run into voltage issues.So, would a CPS3 and CPS2 and/or CPS1 and CPS2 on the MikesArcade adapter run into Voltage issues?CPS1 and CPS2.those would probably run okay. I don't have a CPS1 board any longer to test that, but I know Konami GX boards work just fine with that and a CPS2 plugged in.As for a CPS3.

Taito F3, Taito GNET, Namco 256 boards will give you hell on a 2in1 switcher due to the voltage, though. My workaround was to run those on their own power supply (ditto for Naomi and Type-X). If you don't have a problem soldering/crimping wires/making cables, then you can rig up just about any workaround to get things running. Interesting topic.A few weeks ago when I was in japan I noticed that a few Game Centers also make use of this switches.I thought that would something convinient to use with CPS2 or CPS3 Systems in One cabinet.Per example:I've seen a cab with Battle Garrega and Batsugun in one Astro. Seems to be working good for them.But what I liked the most was a Buttonlayout switcher which was installed in almost every Fighting Game Cabinet I've seen.There was one Place in Osaka which had cabs running with 3 different Button Layouts you could select with a switch.

Interesting topic.A few weeks ago when I was in japan I noticed that a few Game Centers also make use of this switches.I thought that would something convinient to use with CPS2 or CPS3 Systems in One cabinet.Per example:I've seen a cab with Battle Garrega and Batsugun in one Astro. Seems to be working good for them.I wonder which type of switch they use because if it works in arcade environment it will definitely work for modest play.I have heard of a mythical sanwa or suzo-happ Jamma switcher.but I can't find too much info on it. There is a $400 Jamma Switch from Suzocalled 'All in One Perfect Solution' which is geared for Incredible Technologies Games and has an added option of sharing a trackball. The Suzo Happ website is light on details. Here's the link:I hope vector labs updates their site because that Jamma Switch seemed interesting too.

That button switch sounds cool too! I've used both (Chinese 2-in-1 and 6-in-1) switchers and both works fine. 2-in-1 powers both boards at the same time so switching between games are instantaneous. 6-in-1 is basically a microcontroller controlled bunch of relays which only powers up the selected game.One important thing with these switches is that you have to match 'similar' games regarding screen resolution and frame rate. Adjusting the monitor for all of the games is a bitch. There is a tradeoff sometimes that you have to settle down with an 'optimum' adjustment.My 6-in-1 setup (although there are two more available slots, there is no room left in the cab for extra PCBs).

Didn't have the time for the rotary switch mod yet.1) Galaxian2) Galaga3) 19424) Commando. One important thing with these switches is that you have to match 'similar' games regarding screen resolution and frame rate. Adjusting the monitor for all of the games is a bitch. There is a tradeoff sometimes that you have to settle down with an 'optimum' adjustment.Yeah, this is the most annoying part. You really need to figure out what games you play the most. If you have your MVS hooked up all the time, then you should have that be the 'default' and you just learn to ignore any height/width issues you might come across when going to another board.

This can be a problem with some things like the Taito F3 which has a weird placement compared to most boards, and Namco boards being darker than other pcbs. But yes, you need to find a default setting and try to stick with it.

Or keep your monitor's remote board handy to make tweaks. I use vector-labs.com 4-1 Jamma switchers in my Super Turbo cab, Pacman cab, and the DK switcher as well. I find they work great, as said above, if you choose games that are probably made by the same manufacturer so the width/height and monitor adjustment will be consistent.Does the vector lab jamma switcher do the -5V? Also, in your Super-Turbo Cabinet do you have your Capcom board on the switcher with the kick harness going directly to the board?I am beginning to think this switcher is the one I may be investing in but it can get expensive at $85 + $55 for each adapter. The Vector Labs switcher does indicate -5V on the adapter board so I would say it supports it. You can email him directly to verify. I have a kick harness connected to each of my game boards.

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I put a molex adapter on the end of each of these kick harnesses and I put a molex adapter on my control panel coming from the kick buttons. When I switch games with the switcher, I manually unplug the existing molex kick harness connection and plug in the molex from the kick harness I want to use. One thing to note is that the Vector Labs switcher outputs very weak audio, so you will want to add a amplifier.

Since I wish to use stereo sound anyway, I just have RCA audio plugs from my CPS2 and CPS3 boards going to to an amplified and the sound through JAMMA has been disabled. In my Pacman I have a 12v audio amplifier picked up on eBay. DK does not need this amp as the Sanyo monitors have a built in amp. I use vector-labs.com 4-1 Jamma switchers in my Super Turbo cab, Pacman cab, and the DK switcher as well. I find they work great, as said above, if you choose games that are probably made by the same manufacturer so the width/height and monitor adjustment will be consistent.Does the vector lab jamma switcher do the -5V?

Also, in your Super-Turbo Cabinet do you have your Capcom board on the switcher with the kick harness going directly to the board?I am beginning to think this switcher is the one I may be investing in but it can get expensive at $85 + $55 for each adapter.

Batsugun Dip Switch Settings Machines:Search Machines:Batsugun - Dip Switch SettingsReturn to the game record forOfficial dip switch information may be available in the manual:. 4 Pages, 1483657 KB File.